Bogotá: Initial Impressions of the Capital of Colombia

El Dorado Airport: I am capable of uniting the world.

A feeling of welcome permeated my first night and day in Colombia. I had met up in Atlanta with 12 other U.S. teachers, all participating in the Fulbright Teachers for Global Classrooms program, and from there we'd taken the same flight to Bogotá. We were joined by our IREX coordinator and met at the airport by our local teacher guide. The two of them would set the tone for our time in the capital - serious but lighthearted, informative but deep.

Welcome dinner at the Four Seasons.

Hormiga (ant) cream cheese! Photo by Tara Thomas.

Although it was almost midnight, our hotel had prepared a welcome dinner for us. It was an ideal kickoff to the experience, with the opportunity to try some typical Colombian food. We were served arepas (corn cakes), paipa cheese, and mango juice. The most exciting part was the chance to taste hormigas -- ants! -- mixed in a cream cheese spread. I've always wanted to taste insects (in a prepared form). There are many cultures that consume insects, and they're often also proposed as a climate-friendly alternative to eating meat. I'm disappointed to admit that I didn't really care for the flavor of the ant cream cheese - a little too savory for me, kind of like a miso or mushroom taste. But I'm thrilled to have had the chance to try it.

Four Seasons Bogotá stairway.

Coffee-station display.

Tea and cookies.

More decorations at the coffee station, Four Seasons meeting room.

Our day began with an introduction to the Colombian education system; while we listened and learned, we also sipped coffee. I thought, being from Seattle, that I was accustomed to coffee culture, but it's even more central to the culture here in Colombia. Maybe it's psychological, but I also find the flavor more palatable here. At home I usually need milk and sugar to make coffee appealing to me, but black coffee in Colombia is so delicious that it's almost like it's sweet and creamy on its own.

The education system in Colombia is broken into primary (ages 6-12), secondary (through 11th grade), and post-secondary (university or trade school). By law, education is an individual right and public service. Although it's compulsory, in the past there was a problem of students not attending school. Today about 90 percent of students attend primary school. Attendance is incentivized by support from social workers, as well as monthly stipends for the very poor whose children are enrolled.

One major difference to the United States is that all schools contain all grades, from nursery school to 11th grade. Schools are funded equally based on enrollment; funding doesn't vary from department to department (like U.S. states). The local authority (city or department) can decide how to distribute the funds, and corruption is an issue, but teachers can also strike or sue if they aren't paid. In recent years, government investment in education has increased, and illiteracy is being gradually eradicated. In fact, adults who never completed their education can also attend school if they choose.

Other statistics:

- About 45 percent of students receive post-secondary education.

- About 40 percent of students attend private schools (they must pay, but they are usually more prestigious).

- The current illiteracy rate is 5.7 percent.

- Colombian teachers went on strike for 2 months in 2017. Some changes that resulted were extending the school day, legislating food in schools, opening up education to younger students, and changes to bonuses.

- Most classes have 35-40 students (some up to 50).

- Most schools operate in 2 shifts, morning and afternoon. Students and teachers can choose either roughly 7 a.m. -12 p.m. or 1 p.m. -6 p.m. Often, extra programs like robotics or English immersion are offered during the off-shift or on Saturdays.

- Student grades are 70 percent academic, 10 percent personal, and 20 percent social.

- Government goals for 2025: Peace, Equity, and Education (with emphasis on bilingualism, STEM, and teacher training).

Bogotá traffic is a frequent topic of conversation. Many people beat gridlock with "motos" and other 2-wheeled transport.

Colombia is 90 percent Catholic (5 percent are Protestant/other Christian, and 5 percent are other religions).

Bogotá is filled with beautiful ironwork. Many buildings are built from red brick due to the easy availability of clay and the temperature-regulating properties of the brick. It's also cheap in that it doesn't need painting.

Bogotá is a bustling, modern city with a population comparable to New York City (between 8-11 million people, depending on how it's measured).

You are not alone (feminine).

Count on us/ for peace/ never for war/ living memories of the indigenous peoples of Colombia

Colombia is the world's second-largest exporter of flowers, behind only the Netherlands. The majority of its flowers are sold to the United States.

Fruit juice is part of many meals. It's sometimes thickened with milk. Colombia has enough fruits to eat a different one every day of the year!

Beef taco starter. The red color is a sweet radish sauce. Although these are Mexican-inspired, they're not at all spicy - few foods here are.

Delicious duck ravioli with an orange carbonara sauce, topped with corn and pine nuts. We enjoyed a wonderful welcome dinner at a nearby restaurant. Bogotá is known for great dining, and our hotel is in the "Zone G" - G for Gastronomy.

My first impressions of Bogotá were very positive. If you love big cities, I highly recommend a visit. It provided a wonderful entry point to Colombian culture. I am honored to be embarking upon this trip with a group of such driven, curious, and thoughtful educators. It's such a privilege to be traveling in this special way, where we will be able to view a new country through the lens of our profession.

Experience, travel – these are as education in themselves. – Euripides